A growing sector

A derma-center in Brazil 976x549

A derma-center in Brazil. © L'Oréal (Alexis Raimbault)

A derma-center in Brazil 976x549

A derma-center in Brazil. © L'Oréal (Alexis Raimbault)

The dermocosmetics market is still young and is in full expansion. The sector has doubled in just 15 years, jumping from 2.2% to 4.4% of the global beauty market. Western European markets represent 60% of the dermocosmetics market and 22% of the total beauty market. Dermocosmetics originated in France and in Europe, which accounts for the historical predominance of these mature markets. Today, France is the market leader followed by Italy, Germany and Spain. The position of dermocosmetics in the global beauty market in Europe has shifted, however, from 5.5% in 1998 to 11.8% in 2013.

Recent internationalisation has strongly increased dermocosmetics sales in new markets. Brazil, for instance - where, for 48% of consumers, professional recommendation is the first criteria to determine purchase1 - is now the 5th largest market, and China follows closely in 6th position. According to a 2012 Sociovision survey of 26 000 consumers in 11 countries, medical recommendation is a determining purchasing factor.

Pharmacies and parapharmacies play a key distribution role for dermocosmetics: in Western Europe 25% of skincare products are sold through these channels2. Pharmacies are a longstanding French specificity: in 2013, 33.5% of skincare products in France were bought in pharmacies. Considering the importance of pharmacies and parapharmacies in Western Europe's distribution network, the trend is to modernize them for an enhanced consumer experience.

In the USA, as in Brazil and China, pharmacies do not necessarily hold the same attraction as in Western Europe. In these newer markets, consumers prefer drugstores, shopping malls and department stores.

The Active Cosmetics division has experienced a double-digit growth over the last 4 years. In 2013, the department outperformed the dermocosmetics market with a growth rate that is 1.6 times above the market's rate. It contributed to about 40% of the global market growth.

1 IFOP study, 2013
2 L’Oréal

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1/ France is the country in Europe with the most dermatologists (1 dermatologist for 17 000 inhabitants compared to 1 for 17 300 inhabitants in Italy, 1 for 22 900 in Germany or 1 for 26 000 in Spain). The number of dermatological prescriptions per year reached 1.7 million for dermatologists and 4.5 million in France for doctors in general3.

2/ In 2013, prescription drugs sales in pharmacies in France decreased by 2.8% whereas dermocosmetics sales increased by 4%, according to trade magazine Le Moniteur des pharmacies. The trend is expected to continue as a result of policies related to prescription drugs reimbursement in France.

3IMS Xponent